Wild Coast of Catalonia

Arrive at Girona airport where you will be transferred to your accommodation in L’Escala. The old centre of the town still retains the character of a typical Spanish working town with its bustling narrow streets and a good selection of shops, bars, cafes and restaurants. There are two small, popular beaches in the old town that add to the overall charm and atmosphere of the area.

Accommodation: Pension, L’Escala. Located in the old part of L’Escala, this family-run Pension provides rooms with full bathrooms, telephone and television. Jordi Sabadi Vilaproposes runs the family restaurant; he specialises in empordanesse cuisine, personalised, vivid and modern, clear with fresh flavours without forgetting about the traditional roots.

Leaving L’Escala behind you will make your way onto the beautiful coastal trail. You will pass the walled settlement of Sant Mart d’Empries, which is well worth a visit. The real highlight is the fascinating Greek and Roman ruins at nearby Empries (pay locally). The ancient city was used by the Romans as their base for the invasion and dominance of the Iberian Peninsula. There are some excellent mosaics and other remains, most dating from 218 BC onwards. From Empries, you walk along the southernmost part of the Bay of Roses, past several beaches where you could pause for a swim. You will finally arrive at Sant Pere Pescador. Surrounded by natural spaces of the wonderful landscape and natural interest and crossed by the River Fluvi, St. Pere dates back to the year 974 when it was still a possession of the monastery of St. Pere de Rodes.

Accommodation: Rural Guest House (Casa Rural). The house is situated next to the River Fluvia and surrounded by fields of fruit trees. It is right at the beginning of the natural reserve “Parc de Mig de Dos Rius”, where there is a great diversity of fauna. The house was constructed in the 19th century and is completely restored and furnished with care. It has five rooms all en-suite, heating, television and air conditioning. The dining room is very sunny with views to the garden; the living room has a chimney, television, music equipment and board games. In the lounge on the top floor, you will be able to relax, read or simply enjoy the view. The Guest House also has a swimming pool.

Today’s walk takes you along the banks of the River Fluvi, along the beach at its mouth and then through the Aiguamolls Natural Park, dotted with hides. At any time of the year you are likely to spot birds such as ibis, herons, tufted ducks, pochards, snipes, redshanks, marsh harriers and sandpipers, but if you are lucky you can make some exciting sightings during the spring and autumn migrations: grey herons, golden plovers, flamingos, black storks and spoonbills. You will eventually arrive at Castello D’Empuries. Castello is a beautiful medieval village steeped in history. There are many historical buildings to visit; however, the landmark of the village, visible from afar, is the parish church of Santa Maria which is often called the “Cathedral of the Empord” because of its size and gothic influenced architecture.

Accommodation: Guesthouse located in the heart of the town, built on the ruins of the former home of the Count of Castello, each of the uniquely designed rooms is fitted with fully reversible air conditioning and all have en-suite bathrooms. They offer lovely views of the village.

This morning you will be transferred to Platja Canyelles. You will head east along the coast following a spectacular coastal trail that is destined to fulfil every walker’s hopes and dreams. You will pass many secluded beaches and coves with ample opportunities for a dip in the crystal clear sea. Eventually, you will cut inland through hillsides packed with tiers of old olive groves, and finally onto Cadaques.

Cadaques was a favourite of both Picasso and Salvador Dal where Salvador Dal once famously said in 1920: “I have spent a delightful summer, as always, in the perfect and dreamy town of Cadaqus. There, alongside the Latin sea, I have been quenched by light and colour”.

Accommodation: Pension, Bed & Breakfast, Cadaques. Close to the beach and the centre of Cadaques this family-run Pension is simple, clean and friendly. All the rooms are en-suite.

Accommodation Upgrade Option: 3 Star Hotel, Bed and Breakfast, Cadaques. This little inn of a considerable charm is located very close to the beach. A hospitable place, it offers decent sized guest rooms and well-maintained bathrooms.

On your free day in Cadaques, you could spend the day exploring the numerous small winding alleyways, a visit to the parish church from the 17th century should not be missed. Perhaps a walk to Port Lligat and Salvador Dal’s house would be in order. (3 Km, 45 minutes).

You may decide to walk to the Cap de Creus lighthouse. The most easterly point of the Iberian Peninsula is spectacular; the rock outcrops are one of the most significant features of the Parc Natural, with its complicated and beautiful forms which often cause the visitor’s imagination to get carried away. One sees images of real or mythical animals in the area (lions, dragons, camels, eagles, cats, rats…), despite the fact that it is the wind and the sea, and not the Gods, which have gone on shaping the geological landscape of the Creus cape right up to the present day. You could also have some lunch at the wonderful restaurant there. (12.4 miles 19.9km 6 hours)

Leaving Cadaques you make your way north through the heart of the famous Cap de Creus National Park. You will follow a deeply rural path with beautiful views of the Catalan countryside before arriving at El Port de la Selva. El Port de la Selva is outstanding for its varied landscapes, its beaches and its mountains. The first historical references to the settlement go back to 974, although it did not become a fully-fledged village until the 18th century, with the construction of its first church. The village retains the charm of a small fishing village and a great many monuments and historical buildings remain, such as the Taballera Dolmen, the Serra de Rodes medieval site (made up of Sant Pere de Rodes Monastery, Sant Salvado Castle (13th century), Santa Elena Shrine and the village of Santa Creu), and Sant Fruits Church. The village has some of Catalonia’s best beaches.

Accommodation: 3 Star Hotel in El Port de la Selva. The hotel is an old manor house from 1864 made with stones from the Cap de Creus. It’s been a hotel since 1960 and was totally refurbished in 2005. It’s just a few meters from the beach. It has 2 restaurants (one of them in front of the sea) and a panoramic lounge.

Leaving El Port de la Selva behind you, travel South West ascending up to the Sant Pere de Rodes cloister. Its origins date back to the first century after Christ. Christian doctrine understands Sant Pere de Rodes as one of the most important monasteries in Spain. You will then make your way up to the ruins of Castell de Sant Salvador, from here you will have a breathtaking view of the Alt Emporda, across to the Albera Mountains and far into the Pyrenees. Enjoy stunning views over the Bay of Roses and the entire Cap de Creus.

Then make your way down past the little white chapel of Sant Onofre into the village of Palau Saverdera and finally the end of your journey. Palau Saverdera is a small medieval village with a beautiful little church in the centre, there are a few local bars in the village in which to enjoy a well-deserved drink at the end of the day.

Accommodation: Guesthouse in Palau Saverdera. The guesthouse, renewed in 2006, is a charming house situated in a small Catalan village, only 5 km away from the sea. The rooms offer you all the services of a small hotel. In the evening you will have the opportunity to savour some wonderful traditional Catalan cuisine.